• jrig33

The Art of Developing Active Aggression

The techniques being described in this article have been developed during the course of over

two decades of hands on experience, working hundreds of dogs, listening to, watching and

training with some of the top working dog trainers our industry has ever known. They all

deserve recognition for their contribution to the evolution of dog training as we know it


Some of the people who have had the greatest influence and impact on my education

as it relates to aggression work and drive manipulation are; John Rodriguez, Ed Nurse, Dean

Calderon, Dr. Helmut Raiser, Mike Lorraine and Greg Doud to name a few. I am forever

indebted to the people who have entrusted me to work their pets, protection dogs, sport dogs

and K-9 partner’s over the years. Without these people providing me the forum in which to

practically apply the things I was taught, the theories could have never evolved into

successful techniques. My utmost appreciation is directed towards the dogs themselves. From

the subtle ear twitch and tail wag, to instantly educating some bad timing by leaving me

bloodied, every single dog has taught me through their non-verbal song. I haven’t invented

these techniques, only compiled them and composed a method. I have also been fortunate

enough to work with the right people, been able keep an open mind and ear, along with

choosing a profession which has provided the opportunities to apply theses techniques in the

real world, with sustained success. My eternal attraction to dog training is derived from the

glorious struggle of climbing a mountain of knowledge for which there is no plateau. There is

always more to learn and I hope someone can benefit from this method, digest it and catapult

it into another level.

Active aggression:

The goal of this method is to arm the animal with a powerful tool which can be utilized to not

only defeat, overpower, intimidate and apprehend a threat in a real world confrontation but

also to instigate activity in a passive target, through what I refer to as active aggression. I

define “Active Aggression” as forward, animated, offensive offerings by the dog which can be

shown through, but not limited to; erect and dominant body posture, eye contact, a desire to

advance towards the target, combined with strong, convincing, repetitive, powerful barking.

Restriction from a leash can alter these behaviors but the intent of the animal remains the

same. These behaviors are all initiated by the dog, not a reaction provoked by an outward

movement or stimulus created by the decoy or target. Initiating a fight with a passive target

and creating activation is the desired response from the dog when placed in these situations.

Although this article’s main focus is for Police K-9 training, this method can benefit sport dogs

and personal protection dogs as well. Many dogs don’t have the genetic potential to produce

these behaviors. This is why the selection process is crucial to the success of the team and

achieving their ultimate goal. However; I have had success enhancing the confidence of

weaker dogs in the sport world or working in other applications through “Boogie Man” work.

This method, when applied correctly with perfect timing, can greatly enhance the dog’s confidence, harden nerves, bolster awareness, and raise the bar of the dog’s genetic

potential. There are several key steps to follow in order to produce a dog who will display

active aggression which is reliable and purposeful, even on the most passive of potential

threats. The dog must believe, through his own self-initiated effort, he/she can cause a fight

to start and their aggression is the key to winning.

Comfort Zone:

In order to invoke feelings in the dog which will ultimately produce active aggression,

controlled conflict must be brought into their world which can elicit Fight, flight or freeze

responses.  The animal must perceive a real confrontation in order to elicit predatory

reactions to which we can build upon. This is extremely delicate work because we are placing

the animal in a very vulnerable state. In the early stages of Boogie Man, the confrontation is

less intrusive and getting the Boogie Man to retreat happens with the slightest offensive

behaviors displayed from the dog. A less experienced decoy can participate at this level due

to his greater distance away from the dog. As this technique progresses, the Boogie Man

becomes much more of a threat and formidable opponent. Having a decoy that has a deep

understanding of dog behavior and drive channeling/manipulation is crucial. Flight obviously

is the least desirable of the three responses we want to see from the dog. Restricting the

option of flight can result in advancing towards the ultimate goal but prolonged duration in

this mode would suggest this would be the wrong animal for this task. The secret behind the

success of this technique is how the decoy responds, rewards and alleviates the conflict at

precisely the right moment. This decoy’s role and responsibility is discussed at length in the

next chapter. Environmental factors play a crucial role in taking dog out of their comfort

zone and producing uncertainty. The uncertainty and insecurity is what forces the dog to

switch gears into predatory aggression mode, tapping into “survival” feelings. This technique

is ideally done in darker, low-light areas such as alley ways, business parks, and industrial

plazas. Wooded areas can also be utilized but generally speaking, most dogs feel more “at

home” in the woods. In the beginning, you do not want any connections to a training field.

Many IPO/Ring/PSA dogs have the genetic potential for this type of work, but it will never be

revealed in a sport setting. In the presence of a prey stimulus or other equipment cues (suit,

sleeves, jumps, blinds etc..) the dogs are programmed, comfortable and imprinted for a

"sparring match" not real world aggression. It is essential we remove the animal from its

comfort zone and eliminate equipment cues in order to get them out of balance. Selecting a

location the dog has never been is a priority to achieve the aforementioned. This will avoid

any territorial reactions through familiarization. This exercise takes a few seconds, there is no

equipment needed by the decoy and it pays tremendous dividends for such a small

investment. I have my handlers take all equipment off of the dog except a choke chain or fur

saver. I don’t want to activate the dog with equipment cues for working. I want the dog to

believe they are just getting let out of the car for a bathroom break. The leash must be

secure but the handler must convey a very relaxed, nonchalant picture to the dog. I

recommend using a six foot leash and allowing the dog to have the entire leash to roam and

explore in a casual manner. Reeling in and letting out leash in an abstract manner can affect

the dog’s behavior and choices. The dog must visually acquire the decoy with no influence

from the handler and at this point in the process, I don’t want the wind in the dogs face to make any scent associations. Pairing the scent of the Boogie Man happens later in the game.

This mission is self-discovery on the dog’s part. The decoy is pre-set at a location so the dog

cannot acquire his scent, upwind. This exercise is set up as only a visual one in the begging,

later we attach a scent picture to the encounter. The decoy is dressed in attire which is non-

training specific. In contrast, the decoy is wearing the most bizarre clothing or costume they

can find. Halloween masks are always a solid choice for changing the “picture” for the dog

and also injecting some humor into the training environment for the handlers. It makes for

great training and great camaraderie amongst the troops. The decoy is in low-light, mostly

concealed and lying in a low or prone position, always maintaining eye contact with the dog.

This is crucial not only for the decoy to analyze the animal’s behavior to add and subtract

pressure in order to create a reward but also for safety reasons should there be an equipment

failure or human error. You want to be hidden under debris, brush, boxes, pallets, darker

shadows, wearing ghillie suit or any item(s) which provide concealment but also allow the

decoy to maneuver without too much limitation. Ideally we want the dog to first become

aware of the decoys presence from a good distance away. Close enough for the dog to realize

something “odd” is in his environment, to which he must pay attention, but not too close to

cause avoidance. Too far is always manageable and can be corrected as opposed to being too

close and causing a serious avoidance. Always err on the side of caution. Taking baby steps

towards advancing to your goals is always advisable in any phase of training.

Handlers Perspective & Responsibilities.

During the first few repetitions, there will come a moment when the dog has recognized the

decoy and a clear and defined behavior change will occur. There a myriad of physical

characteristics and behavior traits a dog can exhibit when confronted by a real world conflict

in which they perceive as a potential threat. They are categorized in three common traits

which can be juxtaposed with one another as the threat escalates and deescalates. They are

fight, flight and freeze. When applying this technique to brand new dogs, freeze is probably

the most common behavior the dog will demonstrate. This gives the appearance of the dog

being momentarily suspended in time, balancing on a tight rope of nerve and self-

preservation as they are processing their environment. In this moment, he has choices and

this is where we see the raw character of the dog. At the point of recognition, the handler

should take in whatever slack may be in the line. It should not be done in a way which is a

quick pull simulating a correction, but a slow, methodical retracting. This will tap into some

opposition-reflex, giving a greater likelihood of forward activation and aggression. This will

also give the dog an enhanced sensation of pack drive being solidified, making them more

confidence as the handler has gotten closer to the dog. The handler is to remain silent, giving

no verbal or physical praise. This is a conflict the dog must resolve through his own

aggression, not handler induced. Once the dog realizes the decoy is a risk factor, he may give

a low growl, lean into the collar, bark, spin, sniff the ground, look for an escape route, try

backing out of the collar…etc. The handler must try to keep the dog’s focal point towards the

decoy if there is avoidance. You might have to trap the dog between your legs and apply

pressure with your inner thighs in order to maintain them in this position. You may have to

employ this handling technique for over animated dogs or ones who like to spin. You cannot

accurately predict how a dog will behave. I have seen dogs who are very strong in other forms

of training have issues, in contrast, I’ve seen dogs who lack drive in some areas of training

show very strong in this game. You won’t know until you’ve placed the dog into this position. The low growl, lean into the collar, barking and any other form of forward aggression should

be immediately rewarded by the decoy by getting up from his lowered position and takeoff

running in a 45 degree angle away from the dog. Some screaming from the decoy can add to

the effect of fear being induced and cracking a whip can enhance the dogs drive and

frustration associated with the moment. The understanding we want to create in the dogs

mind is when placed in a confrontation, active aggression will result in the threat becoming

prey. A process known as “drive channeling”. As the decoy is running away from the dog at a

great distance, I allow the dog to conduct a short pursuit or “push” towards the decoy, with

tension on the leash. This continues only for a short distance and once the decoy is out of

sight, I disengage the “push” and I allow the dog to investigate the area where the decoy was

originally hiding. This is where we create a scent association to the exercise. The dog will

switch gears from a visual game to a nose game and deep learning will take place. The dog

will begin to sniff the ground, vegetation, or whatever material the decoy came in contact

with. This is the key to building strong dogs in Boogie Man work and in the real world; the dog

has caused great fear in its opponent through their active aggression. This will soon empower

the animal to display active aggression faster and faster as a form of conflict resolution every

time the opportunity presents itself. The team training the dog must collectively conclude

the dog is ready to handle more pressure from the Boogie Man. A telltale sign the dog is ready

for more is evident in the way the dog comes out of the car. He comes out of the car with a

greater purpose, looking to pick a fight. The feedback I get from handlers new to this

technique is “I can’t even get him to take a bathroom break when I get him out of the

car….all he (the dog) wants to do is find the Boogie Man. The dogs get addicted to the game.

As a handler, the process doesn’t change much. They are to provide safe handling, paired with

solid timing when the dog is rewarded and the pursuit takes place.

The Reward:

Traditional dog training lends itself towards the idea there must be a tangible reward in order

to increase the likelihood of the behavior reoccurring (bite, ball, tug, food…etc) Modern dog

training speaks of the behavior itself becoming the reward. It is very evident through the

progression of “Boogie Man” the actual behavior itself becomes extremely rewarding, self-

gratifying, confidence building and a situation they look forward to more and more. The

action of intense barking displayed through forward aggression which causes activation,

flushing and ultimately flight of a target is so rewarding for the dog, they actively seek these

moments as soon as their paws hit the ground. On very few occasions, I will give the dog a

reward bite on a prosthetic arm/leg to which they are manually removed, never a slip and

carry away. On occasion, I will use a muzzle to add physical contact to the exercise, as long

as the dog is properly conditioned and desensitized to the muzzle. This simple exercise makes

such a vigilant patrol dog, who craves the next fight. It also prepares his nervous system for

the most intense, chaotic, stressful and violent encounters.

Decoy’s role & responsibility: In all phases of aggression training, a skilled, knowledgeable decoy is worth their weight in gold! Although there is very little physical contact with the decoy and the dog in this method,

the timing of when to add and subtract pressure is even more crucial due to the dogs being on

edge with a lowered threshold and in a vulnerable state. Pressing a dog too much can cause

irreversible damage, placing a very negative stigma on this situation. When I train new decoys

in this technique, I have them hold an Ecollar which is set on vibration. When I see or the

handler see’s that critical moment when pressure should be released and the Boogie Man

should run, the handler or I can communicate with the decoy instantly, non-verbally by

vibrating the Ecollar. This gives us a much greater likelihood of perfect timing and success

without having to announce it to the decoy creating another cue for the dog which will cloud

the learning process. It is essential the animal learns his active aggression causes surrender,

retreat and flight in the threat. Especially in the early stages, there are extremely subtle

behavioral changes from the dog the decoy might not be aware of due the darkness,

concealment limiting vision or distance from the dog. In the first few repetitions of this work

we might not get a barking reaction from some higher threshold dogs or dogs in deeper

avoidance who are giving no behaviors to reward. I may reward perked ears, glaring eyes, a

low growl, one step towards the decoy or any slight offensive offering by the dog, many of

which can’t be detected by the decoy. The Ecollar being held by the decoy is a great

communication tool between the instructor, handler and student without ever adding an

audible signal.

I’m reiterating the delicate, impressionable state the dog is in several times throughout this

article to add emphasis on taking your time on building small, rewarding increments while

advancing towards your ultimate goal. Go slow, start at great distances and allow the dog to

dictate the pace at which you gradually implement more and more pressure. If done

correctly, what we once perceived as pressure to the dog, will actually become a cue for

dominance, aggression and a predatory concurring of the dog’s environment. A moment they

enjoy and seek to create over and over.

Identifying Drives & Mood:

As mentioned previously, it takes many years of training dogs as a handler and as a decoy to

have a solid working knowledge of identifying drives, more importantly, how to safely

manipulate them. Watching how dogs interact socially and analyzing the intricate, non-verbal

communication process which takes place amongst them is fascinating and crucial to a

trainer’s education. There are four basic drives we operate within this specific technique and

each drive has a specific goal to be reached in order for that drive to be satisfied. They are;

Prey, Defense, Fight, Pack and I will provide a very brief description of each. These drives can

be described in depth as they are vast and at times, not clearly defined. Theses drives can

have subsections, varying degrees and even intertwine at times. A whole article or seminar for

that matter can be solely dedicated identifying drives, what triggers them and analyzing the

body language and behavior patterns associated with each.

Prey Drive: A stimulus to which the dog perceives as desirable and wants to engage for

the purposes of hunting, pursuing, catching, biting, shaking and killing. This drive can be

enhanced by the prey stimulus activating and moving away from the dog. This drive creates

an extremely positive mood in the dog and is an optimal drive. The tone and pitch of a dogs barking is generally a good indication of what gear they are in. However; this is not an


Defense Drive: An insecure mood in which the dog displays behaviors of nervous

aggression, due to the dog wants the threat to go away. This is not an optimal drive for any

dog to work in. This drive can be displayed in the early stages of this work but with sound

genetics and solid training, it can be switched to a more offensive outcome. This term gets

tossed around in many circles of training and can mean different things to different people.

This is just my interpretation.

Fight Drive: This drive and its actual existence has been debated and disputed since the

beginning of time. I wholeheartedly believe it not only exists ,it thrives in an experienced

patrol dog. It’s my personal opinion fight drive can only truly evolve in dogs that have

successfully hunted humans and engaged in violent encounters with them on a regular basis.

It is truly an offensive, predatory state that encompasses the high mood of prey but is

immersed in the power of real world aggression. It embodies the physical characteristics of

desperation to locate the battle and win. I don’t believe this drive can evolve and mature in a

sport setting as the components of real world violence are absent.

I’m going to provide some examples of how the decoy can address the different behavioral

responses from the dog. This is an ever-evolving, fluid training exercise which can take many

twists and turns, hinging on an acute body language communication process. There is no

substitute for experience and a vast knowledge of canine behavior. We must understand that

there will be a dynamic, non-verbal dialog going on between the decoy and the dog, with the

decoy being tasked with capturing the very precise moment when to submit to the dog,

relieve pressure and flee.

Dog’s response:

1) Flight: The handler must restrict the dogs movement, keeping him focused on the

decoy. The decoy can remain in a lower posture to minimize stress on the dog,

simultaneously crawling in 45 degree angles towards the dog, always bladed away. The

decoy must move slowly and suspiciously almost as if a Komodo Dragon was stalking its

prey. Moving slow also insures the decoy doesn’t become perceived as prey to the dog.

At the very first sign of the dog holding its ground or more favorably advancing

towards the threat, the decoy can get up and run the opposite direction. Once they

realize flight isn’t an option, we want to see the dog switch gears and attempt to

defend itself. In some extreme case of avoidance or extremely high threshold dogs,

closer physical contact may be required. As noted previously, flight is not an option

you want the dog to consider and remaining in this realm one should choose another

occupation for the dog

2) Freeze: This is the most common response from dogs in the first few sessions of

Boogie Man. The decoy can implement the same protocol as the beginning portion of

the “Flight” segment but eventually standing up on their feet. Moving slowly at a 45 degree angle from the dog, eyes looking away, shoulders bladed away and gaining

ground on the dog ever so slightly. The dog may remain in a fixed position, processing

your movement, actions and body language. They are in this mind set because they

realize something in their environment is abnormal and requires their attention but

haven’t decided how to respond. In this situation, I will show the dog a frontal view of

the decoy, still at a great distance to avoid overwhelming the dog. If the decoy

receives no reaction, they should attempt to make themselves look bigger by raising

up higher in their posture and expanding their arms slowly out to the side, while

continuing to advance. In the dog’s world, making themselves appear larger with a

higher head, inflated stance and raised hackles is a very common trait displayed

during social aggression. A picture which is very familiar and very clear to them you

mean business. As with in every phase of this work, when the dog has overcome the

conflict and displayed active aggression, the decoy must discontinue the pressure,

submit and turn into a prey object by running away.

3) Fight: This is the ultimate drive goal we hope to obtain and maintain. This is the

basis for active aggression. The dog is in the most confident state, dragging you from

the car and looking for the Boogie Man so he can pick a fight. As this game progress